It seems
most adviseable, before we go to the other parts of England, to
take a round into Cambria, or Wales, still possesd by the posterity
of the old Britains. Tho' I cannot look upon this as a digression,
but a pursuing of the natural course of things. For this tract
is spread out along by the sides of the Cornavii, and seems to
have a right to be consider'd here, as in its proper place. Especially,
seeing the British or Welsh, the Inhabitants of these parts, enjoy
the same laws and privileges with us, and have been this long
time as it were engrafted into our Government.
Wales therefore
(which formerly comprehended all that lies beyond the Severn,
but has now narrower bounds) was formerly inhabited by three People,
the Silures, the Dimetae and the Ordovices. To these did not only
belong the twelve Counties of Wales but also the two others lying
beyond the Severn, Herefordshire and Monmouthshire, now reckon'd
among the Counties of England. To take them then as they lye:
the Silures (as we gather from Ptolemy's description of them)
inhabited those Countries which the Welsh call by one general
name Deheubarth, i.e. the Southern part; at this day brancht into
the new names of Herefordshire, Radnorshire, Brecknockshire, Monmouthshire,
and Glamorganshire; within which compass there are still some
remains of the name Silures. As to the derivation of the word,
I can think of none that will answer the nature of the Country;
but as to the original of the People, Tacitus imagines them to
have come first from Iberia, upon account of their ruddy complexion,
their curl'd hair, and their situation over against Spain. But
Florianus del Campo, a Spaniard, is very positive in that matter,
and takes a great deal of pains to find the Silures in Spain,
and to obtrude upon us I know not what stories about Soloria and
Silorià among the old Aftures. However, this Country was
very large (for it seems probable from Pliny and Tacitus that
they were possess'd of all South-Wales,) and the Inhabitants were
hardy, stout, warlike, averse to servitude, of great boldness
and resolution (term'd by the Romans obstinacy and stubbornness)
not to be wrought upon either by threats or kindness: and their
posterity have not degenerated in any of these particulars. When
the Romans, out of an itching desire of enlarging their Empire,
made attempts upon them, they (partly reposing a confidence in
the courage and conduct of King Caratacus, and partly incens'd
by a saying of Claudius the Emperour, That they were to be as
entirely routed as the Sugambri had been) engag'd the Romans in
a very troublesome and difficult war. For having intercepted the
Auxiliary Troops, cut off the Legion under Marius Valens, and
wasted the territories of their Allies, P. Ostorius, Propraetor
in Britain, was quite wore out with all these crosses, and dy'd
of grief. Veranius too, who govern'd Britain under Nero, was baffled
in this enterprize against them. For where Tacitus says, Illum
modicis excursibus Sylvas populatum effe, that he destroy'd and
wasted the woods with slight excursions; instead of Sylvas, with
the Learned Lipfius only read Siluras, and all's right. Nor could
an end be made of this war before Vespasian's reign. For then
Julius Frontinus subdu'd them, and kept them quiet by garisons
of the Legions. A certain Countryman of ours has wrested that
verse of Juvenal upon Crifpinus, to these Silures:
- magna qui
vocefolebat
Vendere municipes, fracta de merce Siluros.
- Who with hideous cry
Bawl'd out his broken Sturgeon in the streets.
As if some
of our Silures bad been taken prisoners, and expos'd to sale at
Rome. But take it upon my word, he has mistook the genuine sense
of the Poet. For any one that reads that passage with attention,
will quickly perceive that by Siluros he designs to express a
sort of Fish, and not a People.
MONMOUTHSHIRE
The County
of Monmouth, call'd formerly Wentset or Wentsland, and by the
Britains Gwent (from an ancient City of that name) lies southward
of Brecknock and Herefordshire. On the north 'tis divided from
Herefordshire by the river Mynwy; on the east from Glocestershire
by the river Wye; on the west from Glamorganshire by Rhymni; and
on the south 'tis bounded by the Severn sea, into which those
rivers, as also Usk (that runs through the midst of this County)
are discharged. It affords not only a competent plenty for the
use of the inhabitants, but also abundantly supplies the defects
of the neighbouring Counties. The east part abounds with pastures
and woods; the western is somewhat mountainous and rocky, though
not unserviceable to the industrious husbandman. The inhabitants
(saith Giraldus, writing of the time when he liv'd) are a valiant
and courageous people; much inured to frequent Skirmishes; and
the most skilful archers of all the Welsh borderers.
In
the utmost corner of the County Southward, call'd Ewias, stands
the ancient Abbey of Lantoni, not far from the river Mynwy, amongst
Hatterel-hills; which because they bear some resemblance to a
chair, are call'd Mynydh Kader [a]. It. was founded
by Walter Lacy, to whom William Earl of Hereford gave large possessions
here; and from whom those Lacies, so renown'd amongst the first
Conquerours of Ireland, were descended. Giraldus Cambrensis (to
whom it was well known) can best describe the situation of this
small Abbey. In the low vale of Ewias (saith he), which is about
an arrow-shot over, and enclos'd on all sides with high mountains,
stands the Church of St. John Baptist, cover'd with lead; and
considering the solitariness of the place, not unhandsomly built
with an arched roof of stone: in the same place where formerly
stood a small Chapel of St. David's the Archbishop, recommended
with no other Ornaments than green moss and ivy. A place fit for
true Religion, and the most conveniently seated for Canonical
discipline, of any Monastery in the Island of Britain: built first
(to the honour of that solitary life ) by two Hermits, in this
Desert, sufficiently remote from all the noise of the world, upon
the river Hodeni, which glides through the midst of the vale.
Whence 'twas call'd Lhan Hodeni; Lhan signifying
a Church or Religious place [b]. But to speak
more accurately, the true name of that place in Welsh is Nant
Hodeni; for Nant signifies a rivulet:
whence the Inhabitants call it at this day Lhan-Dhewi yn Nant-Hodeni,
i.e. St. David's Church on the river Hodeni. The rains which mountainous
places always produce, are here very frequent; the winds exceeding
fierce, and the Winters almost continually cloudy. Yet notwithstanding
that gross air, this place is little obnoxious to diseases. The
Monks sitting here in their Cloisters, when they chance to look
out for fresh air, have a pleasing prospect on all hands of exceeding
high mountains, with plentiful herds of wild Deer, feeding aloft
at the farthest limits of their Horizon. The * body of the Sun
surmounts not these bills, so as to be visible to them, till it
be past one a clock, even when the air is most clear. And a little
after - The fame of this place drew hither Roger Bishop of Salisbury,
prime Minister of state; who having for some time admired the
situation and retired solitariness of it, and also the contented
condition of the Monks, serving God with due reverence; and their
most agreeable and brotherly conversation; being returned to the
King, and having spent the best part of a day in the praises of
it, he at last thus concluded his discourse: What shall I say
more! all the Treasure of your Majesty and the Kingdom would not
suffice to build such a Cloister. Whereupon both the King and
Courtiers being astonish'd, he at last explain'd that paradox,
by telling them be meant the mountains wherewith 'twas on all
hands enclos'd. But of this enough, if not too much.
On
the river Mynwy are seen the castles of Grossmont and Skinffritb,
which formerly by a Grant of King John belong'd to the Breoses,
but afterwards to Hubert de Burgh, who (as we are inform'd by
Matthew Paris) that he might calm a court-tempest of Envy, resign'd
up these and two other castles, to wit, Blank and Hanfeld, to
King Edward (2nd edition changed to Henry) the third.
In
another corner North-eastward, the river Mynwy and Wy meeting,
do alrnost encompass the chief town of this County, which is thence
denominated; for the Britains call it Mynwy, and we Monmouth.
On the North-side, where it is not guarded with the rivers, it
is fortify'd with a wall and a ditch. In the midst of the town,
near the market place, stands the castle, which (as we find in
the King's records) flourish'd in the time of William the Conqueror;
but is thought to have been re-built by John Baron of Monmouth.
From him it devolv'd to the House of Lancaster, when King Henry
the third had depriv'd him of his Inheritance, for espousing so
violently the Baron's Interest against him: Or rather (as we read
in the King's Prerogative) for that his heirs had pass'd their
Allegiance to the Earl of Britain in France. Since that time this
town has flourish'd considerably, enjoying many privileges granted
them by the House of Lancaster. But for no one thing is it so
eminent, as the birth of King Henry the fifth, that triumphant
Conqueror of France, and second Ornament of the Lancastrian Family:
who by direct force of arms subdu'd the Kingdom of France, and
reduc'd their King, Charles the sixth, to that extremity, that
he did little better than resign his Title. Upon whose prosperous
Success, John Seward a Poet in those times and none of the lowest
rank, bespeaks the English Nation in this lofty stile:
Ite per extremum
Tanain, pigrosque Triones,
Ite per arentem Lybiam, superate calores
Solis, & arcanos Nili deprendite fontes.
Herculeum finem, Bacchi transcurrite metas;
Angli juris erit quicquid complectitur orbis.
Anglis rubra dabunt pretiosas aquora conchas,
Indus ebur, ramos Panchaia, vellera Seres,
Dum viget Henricus, dum noster vivit Achilles
Est etenim laudes longe transgressus avitas.
March on,
brave Souls, to Tanais bend your arms,
And rowze the lazy North with just alarms.
Beneath the torrid Zone your enemies spread;
Make trembling Nile disclose it's secret head.
Surprize the World's great limits with your hast,
Where not Alcides nor old Bacchus past.
Let daily triumphs raise you vast renown,
The world and all its treasures are your own.
Yours are the Pearls that grace the Persian Sea, 7
You rich Panchæa, India and Catay
With spicy, ivory barks, and silk supply.
While Henry, great Achilles of our land,
Blest with all joys extends his wide command.
Whose noble deeds and worthy fame surpass
The ancient glories of his heavenly race.
Monmouth
also glories in the birth of Galfridus Arthurius, Bishop of St.
Asaph, who compiled the British History; an Author well experienced
in Antiquities, but as it seems not of antique credit: so many
ridiculous Fables of his own invention [c] hath
he inserted in that work. In so much that he is now amongst those
writers that are censur'd by the Church of Rome.
The river
Wy (wherein they take Salmon plentifully from September to April)
is continued from hence Southward with many windings and turnings.
It's now the limit between Glocestershire and Monmouthshire; but
was formerly the boundary betwixt the Welsh and English; according
to that verse of Necham:
Inde vagos
Vaga Cambrenses, hinc respicit Anglos.
Hence Wye the English views, and thence the Welsh.
Near
its fall into the Severn-Sea, it passes by Chepstow, which is
a Saxon name, and signifies a market or place of trading. In British
'tis call'd Kaswent or Castelh Gwent. 'Tis a town of good note,
built on a hill close by the river; guarded with walls of a considerable
circumference, which take in several Fields and Orchards. The
castle is very fair, standing on the brink of a river: and on
the opposite side there stood a Priory, whereof the better part
being demolish'd, the remainder is converted to a Parish church.
The bridge here over the Wy is built upon piles, and is exceeding
high; which was necessary, because the tide rises here to a great
height. The Lords of this place were the
Clares Earls of Pembroke; who from a neighbour castle call'd Strighul,
where they liv'd, were entitled Earls of Strighul and Pembroke:
of whom Richard the last Earl, a man of invincible courage and
strength (sirnam'd Strong-bow from his excellency in Archery,)
was the first that made way for the English into Ireland. By his
daughter it descended to the Bigots, &c. And now it belongs
to the Earls of Worcester. This place seems of no great antiquity;
for several do affirm, and that not without reason, that it had
its rise not many ages past, from the ancient city Venta, which
flourish'd about four miles hence in the time of Antoninus, who
calls it Venta Silurum, as if it had been their chief city. Which
name neither arms nor time have consum'd; for at this day 'tis
call'd Kaer-went, or the city Venta. But the
city it self is so much destroy'd by the one or the other, that
it only appears to have been, from the ruinous walls, the checquer'd
pavements, and the Roman coyns [d]. It took up
about a mile in circumference: on the South-side is a considerable
part of the wall yet remaining, and more than the ruins of three
Bastions. What repute it had heretofore, we
may from hence gather; that before the name of Monmouth was heard
of, this whole Country was call'd from it Went-set or Went's-land
[e]. Moreover (as we read in the life of Tathaius
a British Saint) it was formerly an Academy, or place dedicated
to Literature, which the same Tathaius govern'd with commendation,
and also founded a Church there; in the reign of King Kradok ap-Ynyr,
who invited him hither from an Hermitage.
Five miles
to the West of Kaerwent is seated Strighul-castle at the bottom
of the hills; which now we call Strugle, but the Normans Estrig-hill,
built (as we find in Domesday-book) by William Fitz-Osbern Earl
of Hereford; and afterwards the seat of the Clares, Earls of Pembroke,
whence they have been also commonly call'd Earls of Strighull.
Beneath
these places upon the Severn-Sea, not far from the mouth of the
river Wy, lies Port Skeweth, call'd by Marianus Port-Skith, who
informs us that Harald built a Fort there against the Welsh in
the year 1065. (changed to 1066 2nd edition) which they immediately,
under the-conduct of Karadok, overthrew. And adjoyning to it is
Sudbroke, the Church whereof call'd Trinity-Chapel, standeth so
near the Sea, that the vicinity of so tyrannous a neighbour, hath
spoil'd it of half the Church-yard, as it hath done also of an
old Fortification lying thereby, which was compassed with a triple
Ditch and three Rampiers, as high as an ordinary house, cast in
form of a Bow, the firing whereof is the Sea-cliff. That this
was a Roman work the Britain bricks and Roman coyns there found,
are most certain arguments; among which the Reverend Father in
God, Francis Bishop of Landaffe (by whose information I write
this) imparted unto me of his kindness one of the greatest pieces
that ever I saw coyn'd of Corinthian copper by the city of Elaia
in the lesser Asia, to the honour of the Emperour Severus, with
this Greek Inscription, *** *** *** that is, The Emperour Cæsar
Lucius Septimius Severus Pertinax. And on the reverse, an Horseman
with a Trophee erected before him, but the letters not legible
save under him *****. that is, of the Elaians, which kind of great
pieces the Italians call Medaglioni, and were extraordinary coyns,
not for common use, but coyn'd by the Emperours either to be distributed
by the way of largess in Triumphs, or to be sent for Tokens to
men well deserving, or else by free Cities to the glory and memory
of good Princes. What name this place anciently had, is hard to
be found, but seemeth to have been the Port and Landing place
for Venta Silurum, when as it is but two miles from it.
Near
Caldecot, where the river Throgoy enters the Severn-Sea, I observ'd
the wall of a castle which formerly belong'd to the High-Constables
of England, and was held by the service of Constableship of England.
Not
far from hence are Wondy and Pen-how, the seats formerly of the
illustrious family of St. Maur, now corruptly call'd Seimour.
For we find that about the year 1240. (in order to wrest Wondy
out of the hands of the Welsh) G. Marescal Earl of Pembroke was
obliged to assist William of St. Maur. From whom was descended
Roger of St. Maur Kt. who married one of the heiresses of the
illustrious F. Beau-cbamp, the noble Baron of Hach; who was descended
from Sibyl one of the co-heiresses of that most puissant William
Marshal E.of Pembroke, and from William Ferrars Earl of Derby,
Hugb de Vivon and William Mallet, men of eminent worth in their
times. The Nobility of all which, as also of several others, have
(as may be made evident) concentred in the Right Honourable Edward
de St. Maur or Seimour, now Earl of Hereford , a singular encourager
of virtue and learning; for which qualification he's deservedly
famous.
The
Fenny tract, extended below this for some miles, is call'd the
Moor; which at my present reviewing these notes has suffer'd a
most lamentable devastation. For the Severn-Sea after a Spring-tide,
being driven back by a Southwest-wind (which continued for 3 days
without intermission) and then again repuls'd by a very forcible
Sea-wind, it raged with such a tide, as to overflow all this lower
tract, and also that of Somersetshire over against it; undermining
several Houses, and overwhelming a considerable number of cattel
and men.
In
the borders of this Fenny tract, where the land rises, lies Gold-cliff
; so call'd (saith Giraldus ) because the stones appear, when
the Sun shines, of a bright gold colour. Nor can I be easily perswaded
(saith he) that nature hath bestow'd this colour on the stones
in vain; or that this is merely a flower without fruit; should
some skilful Artist search the veins and bowels of this rock.
In this place there remain some ruins of an old Priory, founded
by one of the family of Chandois.
From
hence we came through a Fenny Country to the mouth of the river
Isca, call'd by the Britains Wysk, in English Usk, and by others
Osca. This river (as we have already observ'd) taking its course
through the midst of the County, passes by three small cities
of noted antiquity.
The
first on the Northwest borders of the County, call'd by Antoninus
Gobannium, is situate at the confluence of the, rivers Wysk and
Govenni; and thence denominated. It is at this day (retaining
its ancient appellation) call'd Aber-Gavenni, and by contraction
Aber-Gaenni; which signifies the Confluence of Gavenni or Gobannium.
It is fortified with walls and a castle, which (as Giraldus observes)
has been oftner stain'd with the infamy of treachery, than any
other castle of Wales. First by William Son of Earl Miles, and
afterwards by William Breos; both having upon publick assurance,
and under pretence of friendship, invited thither some of the
Welsh Nobility, and then basely murder'd them. But they escaped
not God's just punishment; for Breos having been depriv'd of all
his effects, his wife and son starv'd with hunger, died himself
in exile. The other having his brains dash'd out with a stone,
while Breulas-castle was on fire, suffer'd at length the due reward
of his villany. The first Lord of Aber-Gavenni,
that I know of, was one Hamelin Balun, who made Brien Wallingford,
or Brient de L'Isle (call'd also Fitz-Count) his Executor. And
he having built here an Hospital for his two sons, who were Lepers,
left the greatest part of his Inheritance to Walter the son of
Miles, Earl of Hereford. This Walter was succeeded by his brother
Henry, whom the Welsh slew, and invaded his Territories; which
the King's Lieutenants defended, though not without great hazard.
By Henry's sister it descended to the Breoses; and from them in
right of marriage, by the Cantelows and Hastings to Reginald Lord
Grey of Ruthin. But Willam Beauchamp obtain'd it of the Lord Grey,
by conveyance: and he again in default of Issue male, entail'd
it on his brother Thomas Earl of Warwick, and on his heirs-male.
Richard son of William Beauchamp, Lord of Abergavenni, for his
military valour created Earl of Worcester, being slain in the
wars of France, left one only daughter, who was married to Edward
Nevil. From henceforth the Nevils became eminent, under the title
of Barons of Aber-Gavenni. But the castle was a long time detain'd
from them, upon occasion of the conveyance before mention'd. The
fourth of these dying, in our memory, left one only daughter Mary,
married to Sir Thomas Fane; between whom and Sir Edward Nevil
the next heir-male (to whom the castle and most of the estate
had been left by Will, which was also confirm'd by authority of
Parliament) there was a trial for the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni,
before the House of Lords, in the second year of King James; which
continued seven days. But in regard the question of right could
not be fully adjusted; and that each of them seem'd to all (in
respect of descent ) very worthy of the title; and that moreover
it was evident, that both the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni,
and that of Le Despenser, belong'd hereditarily to this family:
the Peers requested of his Majesty, that both might be honour'd
with the title of Baron to which he agreed. It was then proposed
to the Peers by the L. Chancellor, first, Whether heirs-male or
female should enjoy the title of Aber Gavenni; upon which the
majority of voices gave it the heir-male. And
when he had again proposed, Whether the title of Baron Le Despenser
should be conferr'd on the female and her heirs, they unanimously
agreed to it; to which his Majesty gave his Royal Assent. And
Edward Nevil was soon after summon'd to Parliament by the King's
Writ, under the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni. And being according
to the usual ceremony, introduc'd in his Parliament-Robe between
two Barons; he was placed above the Baron de Audeley. At the same
time also, the King's Patent was read before the Peers, whereby
his Majesty restored, rais'd, preferred, &c. Mary Fane, to
the state, degree, title, stile, name, honour, and dignity, of
Baroness le Despenser; and that her heirs successively should
be Barens le Despenser, &c. But the question of precedency
being proposed, the Peers referr'd the decision thereof to the
Commissioners for the office of Earl Marshal of England, who sign'd
their Verdict for the Barony of le Despenser. This was read before
the Peers, and by their order register'd in the Parliament Diary;
out of which I have taken this account in short. What ought not
to be omitted, is that John Hastings held the Castle by homage,
ward, and marriage. When it happens (as we read in the Inquisition)
and if there should chance any war between the King of England
and Prince of Wales; he ought to defend the Country of Over-went
at his own charges, to the utmost of his power for the good of
himself, the King, and Kingdom.
The
second town, call'd by Antoninus Burrium, (who places it 12 miles
from Gobannium,) is seated where the river Byrdhin falls into
Usk. 'Tis call'd now in British, by a transposition of letters
Brynbiga for Burenbegi, and also Kaer-wysk, by Giraldus Castrum
Oskae, and in English Usk. It shews now only the ruins of a large
strong Castle, pleasantly seated between the river Usk, and Oilwy
a small brook, which takes its course from the east, by Ragland,
a stately castle-like house of the Earl of Worcester's, and passes
under it.
The
third City, call'd by Antoninus Isca and Legio secunda, (seated
on the other side of the river Usk, and distant, as he observes,
exactly 12 Italian miles from Burrium) is call'd by the Britains
Kaer Lheion and Kaer Lheion ar Wysk (which signifies the City
of the Legion on the river Usk) from the Legio Secunda Augusta,
called also Britannica Secunda. This Legion, instituted by Augustus,
and translated out of Germany into Britain by Claudius, under
the conduct of Vespasian, (to whom, upon his aspiring to the Empire,
it prov'd serviceable, and also secur'd him the British Legions,)
was placed here at length by Julius Frontinus (as seems probable)
in garrison against the Silures. How great a City this Isca was
at that time, our Giraldus informs us, in his Itinerary of Wales.
A very ancient,
city this was (saith he) and enjoy'd honourable privileges; elegantly
built by the Romans with brick walls. There are yet remaining
many footsteps of its ancient splendour: stately palaces which
formerly with their gilded Tiles emulated the Roman grandeur,
for that it was at first built by the Roman nobility, and adorn'd
with sumptuous edifices: an exceeding high tower, remarkable hot
baths, ruins of ancient temples, theatrical places, encompass'd
with stately walls, which are partly yet standing. Subterraneous
edifices are frequently met with, not only within the walls, but
also in the suburbs, aqueducts, vaults, and (which is well worth
our observation) Hypocausts or stoves, contriv'd with admirable
artifice, conveying heat insensibly through some very narrow vents
on the sides. [An. 1654. hot baths were discover'd
near S. Julian's; the bricks equilaterally square, about an inch
thick, like those art S. Albans. Mr Aubrey.] Two very
eminent, and (next to St. Alban and Amphibalus) the cbief Protomartyrs
of Britannia major, lye entombed here, where they were crown'd
with martyrdom; viz. Julius and Aaron who had also Churches dedicated
to them in this City. For in ancient times there were three noble
Churches here. One of Julius the Martyr, grac'd with a Quire of
Nuns devoted to God's service; another dedicated to St. Aaron
his companion, ennobled with an excellent order of Canons; and
the third honour'd with the Metropolitan See of Wales. Amphibalus
also, teacher of St. Alban, who sincerely instructed him in the
Faith, was born here. The City is excellently well seated on the
navigable river Usk; and beautified with meadows and woods. Here
the Roman Embassadors received their audience at the illustrious
court of that great King Arthur. And here also the Archbishop
Dubricius resign'd that honour to David of Menevia, by translating
the Archiepiscopal See from this City thither.
Thus far
Giraldus. But in confirmation of the antiquity of this place,
I have taken care to add some ancient Inscriptions lately dug
up there; and communicated to me by the right reverend Father
in God Francis Godwin, Lord Bishop of Landaff, a lover of venerable
antiquity, and all other good literature. In the year 1602. some
labourers digging in a meadow adjoyning, found on a checquer'd
pavement, a statue of a person in a short-truss'd habit, with
a Quiver and Arrows; the head, hands, and feet, broken off: and
also the fragment of an Altar with this Inscription of fair large
characters about three inches long: erected by Haterianus Lieutenant-General
of Augustus, and Propraetor of the Province of Cilicia.
These inscriptions
are in the wall of the Garden at Moinscourt
[formely] the house of the Bishop of Landaff.
The next
year was discover'd also this Inscription, which shews the Statue
before mention'd to have been of the Goddess Diana; and that Titus
Flavius Posthumius Varus, perhaps of the fifth Cohort of the second
Legion, had repair'd her Temple.
T. FL. POSTVMIVS VARVS
V. C. LEG. TEMPL. DIANÆ
RESTITVIT.
Also this
votive Altar, out of which the name of the Emperour * Geta seems
to have been rased when be was deposed by his brother Antoninus
Bassianus, and declared an enemy; yet so as there are some shadows
of the Letters still remaining.
PRO SALVTE
AVGG. N. N.
SEVERI ET ANTONI-
NI ET GETÆ CÆS.
P. SALTIENVS P. F. MAE-
CIA THALAMVS HADRI.
PRÆF. LEG. II. AVG.
C. VAMPEIANO ET
LVCILIAN.
And this
fragment of a very fair Altar; the Inscription whereof might perhaps
be thus supplied.
Together with these two fragments.
7. VECILIANA. [This
was lately in the School-wall at Kaer-Lheion, but is now rased
out.]
VIII. [This
is in the Garden-wall at Moin's Court; but the first line (VIII)
and this character (7.)
7. VALER. are
not visible.]
MAXSIMI.
[f]
Here also,
about the time of the Saxon Conquest, was an Academy of 200 Philosophers,
who being skill'd in Astronomy and other Sciences, observ'd accurately
the courses of the Stars, as we aro informed by Alexander Elsebiensis,
a very scarce Author; out of whom much has been transcrib'd for
my use by the learned Tbomas James of Oxford, who may deservedly
be stiled *********, as one that is wholly intent upon Books and
Learning; and is at present (God prosper his endeavours) out of
a desire of promoting the publick good, busily employ'd in searching
the Libraries of England, on a design that is like to be of singular
use to the Commonwealth of Learning.
In the time
of K. Henry 2. when Giraldus writ, this City seems to have been
a place of' considerable strength. For we find, that Yrwith of
Kaer Lheion, a courageous Britain, defended it a long time against
the English forces; till at last being over-power'd by the King,
he was dispossest of it. But now (a fair instance that Cities
as well as Men have their vicissitude and fortune) that is become
an inconsiderable small town, which once was of so great extent
on each side the river, that they affirm St. Gilian's (the house
of the honourable Sir William Herbert, a person no less eminent
for wit and judgment, than noble extraction) to have been in the
city: and in that place the Church of Julius the Martyr is said
to have stood; which is now about a mile out of the town.
From
the ruins also of this City, Newport had its beginning, seated
a little lower, at the fall of the river Usk. By Giraldus 'tis
call'd Novus Burgus. It is a town of later foundation, and of
considerable note for a Castle and a convenient harbour: where
there was formerly some Military-way, mention'd by Necham in these
verses:
Intrat, &
auget aquas Sabrini fluminis Osca
Præceps; testis erit Julia Strata mihi.
Increas'd with Usk does Severn rise,
As Julia Strata testifies.
That this
Julia Strata was a way, we have no reason to question: and if
we may be free to conjecture, it seems not absurd to suppose it
took its name from Julius Frontinus who conquer'd the Silures.
Not far from this Newburgh (saith Giraldus) there glides small
stream call'd Nant Pènkarn, passable (changed to unpassable
2nd edition) but at some certain fords, not so much for the depth
of its water, as the hollowness of the chanel, and deepness of
the mud. It had formerly a ford call'd Rhyd Penkarn, now of a
long time discontinued. Henry 2. King of England having by chance
pass'd this ford; the Welsh (who rely too much upon old prophecies)
were presently discouraged; because their Oracle Merlinus Sylvester
had foretold, that whenever a strong Prince, with a freckled face
(such as King Henry was) should pass that Ford, the British Forces
should be vanquish'd.
During
the Saxon Heptarchy, this County was subject to the Mountain-Welsh,
call'd by them Dunrettan; who were yet under the government of
the West-Saxons, as appears by the ancient Laws. At the first
coming in of the Normans, the Lords Marchers grievously plagued
and annoy'd them: especially the above-mention'd Hamelin Balun,
Hugh Lacy, Walter and Gilbert de Clare and Brien of Wallingford.
To whom the Kings having granted all they could acquire in these
parts, some of them reduced by degrees the upper part of this
County, which they call'd Over-Went, and others the low lands,
call'd Nether-Went.
Parishes in this County, 127.
ADDITIONS to MONMOUTHSHIRE
[a]
Mynydh Kader (mention'd by our Author) is the name of many Mountains
in Wales thus denominated: as Kader Arthur, Kader Verwin, Kader
Idris, Kader Dhinmael, Kader yr Ychen, &c. which the learned
Dr. Davies supposes to have been so call'd, not from their resemblance
to a Kàdair or Chair; but because they have been either
fortified places, or were look'd upon as naturally impregnable,
by such as first impos'd those names on them. For the British
Kader (as well as the Irish word Kathair) signifying anciently
a Fort or Bulwark; whence probably the modern word Kaer of the
same signification, might be corrupted.
[ back ]
[b]
Lhan properly signifies a Yard, or some small Inclosure; as may
be observ'd in compound words. For we find a Vineyard call'd Gwin-lhan;
an Orchard, Per-lhan; a Hay-yard, Yd-lhan; a Church-yard, Korph-lhan;
a Sheep-fold, Kor-lhan; &c. However (as Giraldus observes)
it denotes separately, a Church or Chapel; and is of common use,
in that sense, throughout all Wales: probably because such Yards
or Inclosures might be places of Worship in the time of Heathenism,
or upon the first planting of Christianity, when Churches were
scarce. [ back
]
[c]
That this Jeffrey of Monmouth (as well as most other Writers of
the Monkish times) abounds with Fables, is not deny'd by such
as contend for some authority to that History: but that those
Fables were of his own Invention, seems too severe a censure of
our Author's, and scarce a just accusation: since we find most
or all of them, in that British History he translated; whereof
an ancient copy may be seen in the Library of Jesus-College at
Oxford, which concludes to this effect: Walter Arch-Deacon of
Oxford composed this Book in Latin, out of British Records; which
he afterwards thus render'd into modern British. We find also
many of the same Fables in Ninnius, who writ his Eulogium Britanniæ
about three hundred years before this Galfridus Arturius compos'd
the British History. As to the regard due to that History in general,
the judicious Reader may consult Dr. Powel's Epistle De Britannica
Historia rectè intelligenda; and Dr. Davies's Preface to
his British Lexicon; and ballance them with the arguments and
authority of those that wholly reject them.
Near Monmouth
stands a noble House built by his Grace Henry Duke of Beaufort
call'd Troy; the residence of his eldest Son Charles Marquiss
of Worcester, who is owner of it, and of the Castle and Manour
of Monmouth, settled upon him with other large possessions in
this County, by the Duke his father.
[ back ]
[d]
As a confirmation of what our Author observes, in the year 1689.
there were three checquer'd Pavements discover'd here in the Garden
of one Francis Ridley; which being in frosty weather exposed to
the open air, upon the thaw the cement was dissolv'd, and this
valuable antiquity utterly defac'd. So that at present there remains
nothing for the entertainment of the Curious, but the small cubical
stones whereof it was compos'd; which are of various sizes and
colours, and may be found confusedly scatter'd in the earth, at
the depth of half a yard. Checquer'd Pavements consist of oblong
cubical stones, commonly about half an inch in length; whereof
some are natural stones, wrought into that form; and others artificial,
made like brick. These are of several colours; as white, black,
blue, green, red, and yellow; and are close pitch'd together in
a floor of fine plaister, and so dispos'd by the Artist, with
respect to colour, as to exhibit any figures of men, beasts, birds,
trees, &c. In one of these Pavements, as the owner relates,
were delineated several flowers, which he compared to Roses, Tulips,
and Flowers de Luce; and at each of the four corners a Crown,
and a Peacock holding a Snake in his Bill, and treading it under
one foot. Another had the figure of a Man in armour from the breast
upward. There were also Imperial Heads, and some other variety
of Figures, which had they been preserv'd, might have been instructive,
as well as diverting to the Curious in the study of Antiquities.
In their Gardens, and elsewhere in this Village, they frequently
meet with brass Coyns; which an ingenious and worthy Gentleman
of that neighbourhood has for some years collected. In his Collection
I observ'd an adulterated Coyn of Antoninus Pius, which seem'd
to have been counterfeited not of late, but anciently, when that
Emperour's Coyns were current money. 'Tis a brass piece, of the
bigness of a denarius, cover'd with a very thin leaf of silver,
which when rub'd off the letters disappear. Also Julia Mæsiia
of embas'd metal, not unlike our tin farthings. Others were of
Valerianus, Gallienus, Probus, Dioclesianus, Constantius, Chlorus,
Constantinus, Magnus, Julius Crispus, Constans, and both Valentinians.
This present year (1693.) one Cbarles Keinton shew'd me part of
a Roman brick-pavement in his Yard: the bricks were somewhat above
a foot long, nine inches broad, and an inch and a half thick;
all marked thus:
[ back ]
[e]
The English names of Went-set and Wents land have their origin
from the British word Gwent; whereby almost all this Country,
and part of Glocestershire and Herefordshire were call'd; till
Wales was divided into Counties. But it seems questionable, whether
that name Gwent be owing to the City Venta; or whether the Romans
might not call this City Venta Silurum, as well as that of the
Iceni, and that other of the Belgæ, from the more ancient
British names of part of their Countries. Had the Country been
denominated since the Roman Conquest, from the chief City, it
had been more properly call'd Gwlâd Gaer-Lheion, than Gwlâd
Gwent. But of this enough, if not too much.
[ back ]
[f]
In the year 1654. some workmen discover'd at St. Ju1ian's near
Kaer-Lheion, a Roman Altar, the Inscription whereof was soon after
copy'd by the learned and ingenious John Aubrey Esq; a true lover
and promoter of real knowledge, and a person of equal industry
and curiosity. The Altar, he says, was of Free-stone, four foot
in length, and three in breadth: the Inscription he is pleas'd
to communicate out of his excellent Collection of British Monuments,
to be publish'd on this occasion.
It seems
worth the enquiry of the curious, upon what occasion Jupiter is
here stiled Dolichenus; for that I take to be the meaning of this
word Dolichu. To me it seems somewhat probable, that this Altar
was erected to implore his Tuition of some Iron Mines, either
in the Forest of Dean, or some other place of this Country. The
grounds of which conjecture I take from this Inscription in Reinesius:
Jovi optimo maximo Dolycheno, ubi ferrum nascitur, C. Sempronius
Rectus cent. Frumentarius D.D. For unless Caius Sempronius, who
dedicates this Altar Jovi Dolicheno, makes his request to Jupiter
that he would either direct them to find out Iron Mines, or be
propitious to some they had already discover'd, I cannot conjecture
why he should add the words ubi Ferrum nascitur; which were not
only superfluous, but absurd, if they imply'd no more than barely
that Iron-ore was found at Doliche, a Town of Macedonia, whence
Jupiter was call'd Dolichenus. Augustorum monitu is a Phrase we
find parallel instances of in Reinesius, p. 42. where he tells
us, ex monitu Dei Imperio Deorum Dearúmque, ex jussu numinis,
quicquid facerent, facere videri volebant Pagani.
At
Tre-Dynoq-Church about three miles distant from Kaer-leion, is
preserv'd this fair and entire Monument of a Roman Souldier of
the Second Legion. The Stone is a kind of blue slate: the four
oblique lines are so many Grooves or Canaliculi; and the small
squares without the lines are holes bor'd through the stone; whereby
it was fasten'd with Iron pins to the Ground-wall of the Church
on the outside; and discover'd by the Sexton about twenty years
since, at the digging of a Grave. Considering that this was the
Monument of a Heathen, and must be about fourteen or fifteen hundred
years standing; it seems strange it should be reposited in this
place, and thus fasten'd to the Foundation of the Church: unless
we suppose it laid there by some pious Christian in after ages,
or rather that the Church was built on some old Roman burial-place.
But however that happen'd, that it was there found is most certain,
and testified by a worthy Gentleman of the neighbourhood yet living,
who was present at the discovery of it, and took care to preserve
it.
At Kaer Leion
they frequently dig up Roman Bricks with this Inscription.
LEG. II.
AVG.
The Letters
on these Bricks are not inscrib'd (as on stone) but stamp'd with
some instrument; there being a square cavity or impression in
the midst of the Brick, at the bottom whereof the Letters are
rais'd, and not insculp'd. One of these Bricks may be seen (together
with Mr. Camden's Inscriptions) in the Garden-wall at Moinscourt,
the seat of the worshipful Thomas Lyster Esq; and some others
at Kaer Leion.
In the year
1692. a chequer'd pavement was discover'd in the grounds of the
honoured Henry Tomkins of Kaer Leion Esq; the present High Sheriff
of this County. 'Twas found by workmen a plowing, in a field close
adjoyning to his house. And here we may observe, that these ancient
pavements are not buried so deep in this County, as that in the
Churchyard at Woodchester in Glocestershire. For whereas that
lies at about 3 foot depth, this at Kaer Leion (as also some others
formerly discover'd,) lay no deeper than the plow-share; and that
abovementioned at Kaer-went not much lower. Mr. Tomkins has taken
all possible care, to preserve what the Servants had not spoil'd
of this valuable antiquity; by removing a considerable part of
the floor in the same order it was found, into his garden; and
was pleas'd to communicate a draught of the whole to be publish'd
upon this occasion. The diameter of it is about 14 foot. All the
arches, and that part of the border they touch, were composed
of white, red, and blue stones, varyed alternately. The bills,
eyes, and feet of the birds were red, and they had also a red
ring about the neck; and in their wings, one or two of the longest
feathers red, and another blue. The inside of the cups were also
red; and elsewhere, whatever we have not excepted of this whole
area, is variegated of umber or dark colour'd stones and white.
About forty
years since, some Labourers digging in a Quarry betwixt Kaer Leion
Bridge and Christchurch (near a place call'd Porth Sini Krân)
discover'd a large coffin of free-stone; which being open'd they
found therein a leaden sheet, wrap'd about an iron frame, curiously
wrought; and in that frame a skeleton. Near the coffin they found
also a gilded Alabaster statue of a person in a coat of mail;
holding in the right-hand a short sword, and in the left a pair
of scales. In the right scale appear'd a young maiden's head and
breasts; and in the left (which was out-weigh'd by the former)
a globe. This account of the coffin and statue I receiv'd from
the worshipful Captain Matthias, Bird who saw both himself; and
for the farther satisfaction of the curious, was pleas'd lately
to present the statue to the Ashmolean Repository at Oxford. The
feet and right-arm have been broken some years since, as also
the scales; but in all other respects, it's tolerably well preserv'd;
and some of the gilding still remains in the interstices of the
armour. We have given figure of it, amongst some other curiosities
relating to Antiquity, at the end of tbese Counties of Wales:
but must leave the explication to some more experienc'd and judicious
Antiquary; for though at first view it might seem to be the Goddess
Astræe, yet I cannot satisfie my self as to the device of
the Globe and Woman in the scales; and am unwilling to trouble
the Reader with too many conjectures.
Amongst other
Roman Antiquities frequently dug up here, we may take notice of
some curious earthen Vessels; whereof some are plain, and the
same with those red Patellæ or earthen Plates often discover'd
in several parts of England; but others adorn'd with elegant figures;
which were they preserv'd, might be made use of for the illustration
of Roman Authors, as well as their Coyns, Statues, Altars, &c.
That whereof I have given a figure. represents to us, first, as
an emblem of Piety, the celebrated history of the woman at Rome,
who being deny'd the liberty of relieving her father in prison
with any food, yet obtaining free access to him, fed him with
the milk of her own breasts. I am sensible that in Pliny and most
printed copies of such Authors as mention this history, we are
inform'd she exercis'd this piety to her mother: but this figure
(though it be somewhat obscure) seems to represent a bearded man:
however, whether I mistake the figure, or whether we may read
with Festus, Patre (not matre) carcere incluso; or rather suppose
the tradition erroneous (in some provinces at least) amongst the
vulgar Romans; that the same history was hereby intended, is sufficiently
evident. In the second place we find an Auspex or Soothsayer looking
upwards to observe the motion of a bird; or rather perhaps a Cupid
(according to the Potter's fancy) performing the office of a Soothsayer.
And in the third, a woman sacrificing with Vervain and Frankincense:
for I am satisfied, that the plant on the altar is no other than
Vervein ; and that the Woman reaching her hand towards the Altar,
is casting Frankincense on the Vervein, seems very probable; for
we find that Women, a little before their time of lying in, sacrificed
to Lucina with Vervein and Frankincense. Thus the Harlot Phronesium
in Plautus, (Trucul. Act 2. Scene 5.) pretending she was to lye
in, bids her maids provide her Sweetmeats, Oyl of Cinnamon, Myrrhe,
and Vervein.
Date mihi
huc stactam atque ignem in aram ut Venerem Lucinam meam:
Hic apponite atque abite ab oculis, ---
Ubi es, Astaphium? fer huc verbenam mihi, thus & bellaria.
We may also
collect out of Virgil*, that women sacrific'd with Vervein and
Frankincense upon other occasions.
Effer aquam
& molli cinge hæc altaria vitta:
Verbenasque adole pingues & mascula thura,
Conjugis ut magicis sanos avertere sacris
Experiar sensus. ---
As for the
naked person on the other side the Altar, I shall not pretend
to determine whether it be her husband, or who else is intended
thereby. In regard we find the other figures repeated alternately;
I suppose there were no other delineations on the whole vessel,
than what this piece included within the crack (which is all I
have of it) represents. By the figures on this vessel we might
conjecture it was a bowl used in those Feasts they call'd Matronalia,
observ'd on the Kalends of March; when the married women sacrificed
to Juno, for their happy delivery in childbirths, the preservation
of their husbands, and the continuance of their mutual affections.
And from its form, I should guess it was that sort of vessel they
call'd Phiala: because in Welsh the only name we have for such
vessels is Phîol; which is doubtless of the same origin
with the Greek and Latin Phiala, and is very probably one of those
many words left amongst us by the Romans, which we may presume
to be still preserv'd in the sense they us'd them.
I shall only
mention two other curiosities found here, and detain the Reader
no longer in this County: the first is, a Ram's horn of brass,
much of the bigness and form of a lesser Ram's horn; broken off
at the root, as if it had been formerly united to a brass head.
One of these heads and horns (though somewhat different from ours)
may be seen in Lodovico Moscardo's Musæum, pag. 83. who
supposes such heads of Rams and Oxen to have serv'd at once both
as ornaments in their Temples, and also religious types of sacrifice.
The other
is a very elegant and an entire Fibula vestiaria, whereof (because
it would be difficult to give an intelligible description of it)
I have given 2 figures, one being not sufficient to express it.
It is of brass, and is curiously chequer'd on the back part, with
enamel of red and blue. It should seem that when they used it,
the ring at the upper end was drawn down over the acus or pin;
and that a thread or small string tied through the ring, and about
the notches at bottom, secured the Acus in its proper place. Such
a Fibula in all respects, but that it is somewhat less, was found
An. 1691. near King's Cotte in Glocestershire; where they also
frequently meet with Roman brass coyns, which they call Chesle-money,
a name probably of the same signification with Castle or Chester-money.
They that would be farther satisfied of the various forms and
matter of these Roman Fibulæ, and the several uses they
were applied to, may consult amongst other Authors, the learned
and ingenious Joannes Rhodius de Acia, and Smetius's Antiquitates
Neomagenses.
[ back ]
In the first
of Charles I. Robert Lord Carey was created Earl of Monmouth,
and was succeeded by Henry of the same name. An. 15 Car. 2. James
Fitz-Roy, among other honours, was created Duke of Monmouth; and
at present the right honourable Charles Mordant takes the title
of Earl from this place.
Notes
1. This is the text from the 1695 edition of William Camden's
Britannia.
2. Camden died in 1623, his Britannia continued being
published after his death along with county maps. Most of the
maps in the 1695 edition were the work of Robert Morden.
3. Earlier editions were published in Latin. In the 1695 edition
Edward Llwyd translated text for the Welsh counties. In a letter
published on page 583 (dated Sept. 13 1694) he explained "I
have ... endeavour'd to retain the sense of the Author; but ...
I have sometimes differ'd in writing the Welsh names of Persons
and Places..." He added that he had not strictly used
the Welsh or English spelling for this, but had used a "more
general Alphabet" so that those unacquainted with the
language would be able to pronounce the words "much truer".
Thus a 'k' was used in place of a 'c' to denote a hard sound;
a 'v' in place of 'f'; 'F' for 'Ff'; 'Lh' for 'Ll' and 'Dh' for
'Dd'. Also 'Lhan' was separated from the rest of the place name
- 'Kaer Lheion' for 'Caerllion'. Since this spelling was also
used on the maps, it may have been the cause of later confusion.
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